4 TIPS TO OVERWINTER YOUR GARDEN TOOLS
In theory we probably all know that we should be maintaining and properly storing our tools, but if you are like me, it's something that always seems to slip by the wayside - a task for another day. However, with days growing short and cold, and most gardening chores done for the season, now is a great time to take a look at those tools that have been well used and likely neglected throughout the season. Tools that are cleaned, sharpened, oiled, and stored properly will not only perform better, but will last longer, thus reducing waste, and saving you money.
For the purposes of this guide, we will divide practices into 4 categories:
Cleaning
Sharpening blades
Oiling handles
Storing properly
CLEANING
Tools should ideally be cleaned of soil after every use and sanitized after working with diseased plants. They should always be put away completely dry.
If you are cleaning your tools at the end of the season, follow these steps:
Remove any remaining soil using a stiff brush. Sometimes a soak and scrub in soapy water may be needed for stubborn dirt. An old toothbrush is a great tool to clean hard to access areas. When the tool is clean, make sure to rinse and dry it completely using a clean cloth.
Sanitize using isopropyl alcohol. Wipe all surfaces dry before storing.
Rusted blades can be soaked in white vinegar for a couple of hours and then scrubbed with an old toothbrush or scotch brite. Steel wool can be used to remove rust from less sensitive surfaces, but should not be used if scratching is a concern (i.e. shovel blade, yes, but a pair of pruners, probably not).
A thin coating of oil (WD-40 is often recommended, but for a non-petroleum alternative, vegetable oil or coconut oil are good choices) can be wiped across the tool to lubricate and prevent rusting.
SHARPENING
A sharp blade makes all tools easier to use, puts less strain on the user, and is better for the plant that is being pruned. This blog is not going to dive too deeply into sharpening specific tools, but rather provide a broad overview of best practices. There are tons of great youtube videos out there that dive into specifics.
The frequency of tool sharpening is dependent on several factors including the quality of the blade and intensity of use. For pruners, a good rule of thumb is to sharpen when you notice that your cuts are starting to tear the bark of the species you are pruning.
This video by Plant Amnesty provides a nice overview on handheld pruning tools, including some sharpening tips. Pruners, loppers, and shears are sharpened in much the same way, by holding the tool firmly in position (a vice grip could be helpful here) and passing the sharpener over the edge of the blade. Sharpener options include a diamond file, rat tail file, whetstone, or sharpening stone. Whichever you use, make sure that it is appropriate to the size of the blade, and when sharpening, move it in the same direction as the bevel/angle of the blade.
Sharpening should even out small nicks in a blade, but if there is a large indent (maybe you used your pruning shears to cut a wire), the blade may need to be replaced. Some companies, such as Felco, sell replacement parts. Look into this before purchasing a whole new tool - and if you do need to purchase new, consider modularity and ease of repair/replacement parts when deciding which brand to purchase.
If in doubt, hire a professional! There are several local sharpening services in Wenatchee, including Absolute Razor Sharp.
OILING
Wood handles can last years if properly cared for. Oiling them once a year can help prevent cracking and general wear. The end of the gardening season is a great time to do so, in order to allow the oil to deeply penetrate into the wood and cure during the winter months. Follow these simple steps:
Sand the handle using sandpaper or a palm sander to remove any splinters and coarseness. Wipe the surface clean.
Using a clean rag, apply a thin coat of oil to the wooden surface. Tung oil, polymerized linseed oil, or camellia oil are all nontoxic options. Beware of 'boiled linseed' oil, as the linseed oil is often blended with chemical compounds to decrease drying time, resulting in a substance that is no longer toxin free.
Let the oil soak into the wood and then pass a clean, dry cloth over the surface to remove any excess oil.
Store properly to cure and allow the wood to fully absorb the oil.
PROPER STORAGE
Moisture in the air can cause metal to rust and wood to warp, so ideally tools should be hung in a climate controlled indoor space when not in use. A peg board can be used to hang hand tools, while brackets installed on the wall can hang larger tools like shovels and rakes. A simple google search of 'garage tool organization' will send anyone down a creativity fueled rabbit hole - there are plenty of low cost DIY options out there!
